I was diagnosed with coeliac disease in 2006, aged 48. I was devastated. Having a work friend with it, I used to thank God that I didn't! But only weighing 48 kilos and having an Hb of 90 and falling, something was certainly amiss. A gastroscopy confirmed the diagnosis, and the last gluten-full food I ate was a whole packet of Griffins Gingernuts. Within 10 days of my gluten-free diet, I felt so much better. And I have put on a healthy 15kg. My Hb is 138.
Having coeliac disease hasn't stopped me from travelling. Thankfully, I went backpacking many years ago, before my diagnosis, and was able to eat my way around Europe. I'm an avid traveller and have long been interested in the Silk Road. Talking to friends in January, they said they were doing 24 24-day, 5 ‘Stans tour in August, with Intrepid Travel. I have done tours with Intrepid before and always found them well organised. I decided to join them.
I had two days in Dubai and went to the top of Burj Khalifa (148 floors) - fabulous. Then I flew on to Ashgabat in Turkmenistan. Apparently, the president has a “spiritual” thing about white and gold, so all the buildings were white and gold, and most of the cars were white. A little bizarre, but beautiful.
We spent 2-3 days in each city with several long days of travel in between. Our guide had been briefed on my coeliac diet and was always on hand to help with each and every meal I ate! Breakfasts at the hotels were smorgasbords of manufactured meats, cheeses, olives, pancakes and breads. But there were always eggs, in various presentations, so that is what I had every morning, for 24 days. And fresh fruit. Lunch was usually eaten at restaurants, and travelling was generally a chicken salad. Delicious tomatoes, cucumbers and watermelons. Always generous portions and always nice. Dinner, again at various restaurants, was always ordered in consultation with my guide. Mostly variations of meat, rice and vegetables, and again, always generous portions and always nice.
Samarkand was special. Not only did I buy a beautiful blue silk scarf, we were also treated to a home-cooked meal of Plov. A local dish of slow-cooked meat, rice, vegetables and spices. Even at the home stays, the hosts had been briefed on gluten-free food and always had something prepared for me. At one, the hostess had made gluten-free corn bread and blueberry muffins! Delicious!!
I had snacks of Pavillion muffins and chocolate chip biscuits. They lasted about 10 days. I also took a bag of dried fruit and nuts, which were easily replenished at the huge food markets. Bags of every sort of food and spices are available, and long benches of every sort of animal part. (I'll spare you those graphic photos).
This was a wonderful trip. And I have over 2000 photos. You can see a selection of images by clicking the link here.
Article provided by Raewyn Turner, a member of Coeliac New Zealand.
